Domaine Leflaive - Puligny Montrachet

2004

Autumn 2003 was mild, while January was very damp. February had mixed temperatures, but was sunny and dry (a record since 1945). Spring started on March 14 with very warm, dry weather (22-24� around the 17th), giving rise to fears of a second consecutive scorching hot summer. Return to normal at end-March. The vines resumed their usual growth at the beginning of April. A cool, damp spell followed. In mid-April, growth in vegetation was two weeks behind that of 2003 (a very early year) and a few days behind that of normal years. Vegetal development was slow at end-April and the beginning of May, with cool temperatures � especially at night � but with no frost. Warm weather returned around mid-May, setting off an explosion in vegetal growth. At end-May growth was still behind that of 2003, but was advanced compared with 2001-2002. The first flowers were observed on June 8. In Puligny flowering peaked on June 15, ending around June 20-22. The grape bunches grew quickly after a very good fruit set. July was very cool, especially at night. The start of the v�raison (grape colour change) was observed at end-July (a normal date). The month of August was very rainy for 20 days. Fortunately, September was beautifully dry and sunny, perfectly fulfilling its mandate as the month dedicated to quality in Burgundy 's wines. Ripening continued in regular fashion. Chardonnay ripened more slowly than Pinot Noir, requiring a few extra days before being harvested. Harvesting took place in Puligny from September 25 to October 3. It was a very ripe, abundant harvest with an excellent sugar/acidity balance. The wines can be enjoyed, at the earliest: � Bourgogne Blanc from 2007 � Puligny-Montrachet from 2008 � Premiers crus from 2010 � Grands Crus from 2012 � Montrachet from 2020

Meursault sous le Dos d'�ne

Wine Spectator Insider November 1, 2006 Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane 2004 93 points | $128 | 108 cases imported | White With the essence of freshly crushed rocks, this has depth drawn from its intense flavors, like citronella and honey strained through limestone. It's hard to believe this is Chardonnay-it evokes a sense of place so strongly. Fine length and finesse. Best from 2008 through 2018. Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Meursault Blagny Sous le Dos d'Ane Slightly reduced aromas of yellow plum, peach and lemon cream. Sweet and nicely concentrated, with good acidity and some mineral character, but less fine than the Clavoillon. A bit like a softer version of Meursault Perri�res. 88-90.

Puligny-Montrachet Les Folati�res

Wine Spectator Insider November 1, 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folati�res 2004 92 points | $158 | 200 cases imported | White A gorgeous nose combining toast and mineral aromas introduces this silky white Burgundy. It's lightweightyet finely detailed with citrus, hazelnut and mineral flavors. Terrific balance and integration, with a long finish. Best from 2008 to 2016. Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Montrachet Les Folati�res (this was the earliest wine to go through malo) Very pure, perfumed aromas of peach and white flowers. Juicy and taut, with sharply delineated flavors of peach, lemon, flowers and minerals. Lovely harmonious acidity extends the wine's finish. The first of these wines to show "the real final balance" of 2004, notes Morey. 89-92.

B�tard-Montrachet

Wine Spectator Insider November 1, 2006 B�tard-Montrachet 2004 96 points | $270 | 260 cases imported | White This is intense, revealing layer after layer of nuance. Citrus blossom, hazelnut, anise, lemon custard, apricot, smoke and mineral flavors mingle with the firm structure and creamy texture. It's harmonious and balanced, with lingering notes of vanilla and mineral salts. A lot of finesse for the appellation. Best from 2009 through 2025. Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 B�tard Montrachet Musky yellow fruits and flowers on the aromatic nose. Rich, chewy and sweet; rich and powerful...quite dry. Much more powerful than the Bienvenue, with more thrust. As full as this is, there's nothing heavy about it. 91-94.

Chevalier-Montrachet

Wine Spectator Insider November 1, 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet 2004 95 points | $360 | 270 cases imported | White The oak is a bit flashy now, but there's plenty of substance underneath in this powerful, seductive white. Apple, citronella, hazelnut, smoky spices and mineral aromas and flavors mingle with the bright structure. It's concentrated, yet balanced, with a creamy texture and a long, racy finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Chevalier Montrachet Compelling aromas of lime, minerals, mint, white truffle and flint; distinctly steely. Densely packed, big and round, but with a mineral tautness giving energy to the middle palate. A Chevalier-Montrachet with uncommon volume and breadth for the vintage, and yet the wine's middle is not yet completely filled in. This still needs further rounding out on its lees. 91-94. Decanter, February 2006 2004 Domaine Lefl aive, Chevalier-Montrachet "Elegance and grace coupled with a pure, direct and mineral style. Compact, focused and tremendously long. From 2012."

Puligny-Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Puligny Montrachet Musky, leesy aromas of peach and truffle. Juicy, pure and on the lean side, with lovely cut. Quite nutty, but then this sample was from a new barrel. 87-89.

Puligny-Montrachet Le Clavoillon

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon Lovely green-tinged color. Lemon and lees on the nose. Densely packed but also juicy and floral, with lovely cut and lift. A step up in intensity and clarity of flavor from the village wine. Finishes with noteworthy persistence. 88-91.

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes Les Combettes Candied stone fruits, musky flowers, spices and vanillin oak on the complex nose. Sweeter and more glyceral today than the Folatieres; conveys a somewhat softer impression but this is impressively round, fat and ripe. 89-92.

Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles Captivating, highly nuanced, leesy nose combines lime, white flowers, minerals, spices, hazelnut and herbs. Rich, chewy and sweet, with ripe acids giving the flavors an impression of energy. Less opulent today than the Combettes, more rectilinear. Finishes uncompromisingly dry and long. This wine always starts with less volume, then opens slowly with bottle age, Morey volunteers. 90-93. Decanter, February 2006 2004 Domaine Lefl aive, Puligny-Montrachet, Pucelles "Finely textured and fl uid with a piercing steely core and taut acidity. It's graceful and poised, in a more feminine style with a long, fi ne and pure fi nish. The vintage seems to suit this style. From 2010."

Bienvenues-B�tard-Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Bienvenues B�tard Montrachet Very ripe, leesy aromas of peach and smoky oak. Sweet, fat and chewy with extract...Notes of peach, spices and flowers in the mouth. Finishes chewy and very long. But this is distinctly rigorous today. 90-93.

Montrachet

Stephen Tanzer, International Cellar September/October 2005, Issue 122 2004 Montrachet Pineapple...charry, smoky oak on the nose. Dense, powerful and chewy but given vibrancy by lively citrusy acids. Wonderfully solid without being at all heavy. Builds extremely slowly, then finishes with an exhilarating whiplash of pineappley fruit. Stunning, utterly complete wine, with a three-dimensional texture and great persistence. 93-96

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Beatrice Leflaive

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