Domaine Leflaive - Puligny Montrachet
1990
As in 1989, 1990 was characterised by early growth due to exceptional climatic conditions, comparable to 1941, 1948 and 1961.
Winter was very mild and spring was rainy. Vegetation developed quickly, and the first blossoms appeared on 21 May in the Clavoillon vineyard. The humid and changeable weather during the flowering period brought problems such as "coulure" and "millerandange" (poor fruit set), reducing a harvest that had appeared to be abundant.
Thanks to warm, dry conditions in July and August, the vines benefited from some hundred hours of sunshine more than the average of the previous 40 years. The harvest at Domaine Leflaive started on 19 September. An excellent harvest of healthy grapes with natural degrees of between 12.5° and 14° was brought in.
The acidity, which was even higher than in 1985, gave the wines exceptional balance, and incomparable richness and fruitiness. A classic wine for long bottle ageing, already showing aromas of honey.
One of the great vintages of Domaine Leflaive since 1978.
Chevalier-Montrachet
N° 18, Octobre-Novembre 1997
[Vertical]
Grand Cru blanc,
Chevalier-Montrachet
Chevalier-Montrachet 1990 *
Here is the proof that even the "best" wines, in a truly great vintage like 90, can "miss the boat". Astonishing, but this Chevalier shows neither the ripeness nor the perfect health of most of the grapes in 90. On the nose, notes of baker's flour and yeast. The texture on the palate suggests a certain richness, but with average density compared to what one can expect of a 90. There is even a slight touch of oxidation. The "mark" reflects thwarted expectations...
Christophe Tupinier
Archivist and web designer
Beatrice Leflaive
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