Domaine Leflaive - Puligny Montrachet

2005 & 2004 vintages by Allen Meadows

13.09.07

Burghound.com 1 July 2007 Allen Meadows' 3rd Quarter, 2007 Issue 27 B U R G H O U N D. C O M® THE ULTIMATE BURGUNDY REFERENCE In This Issue - 135 Producers and 894 Wines Reviewed 2005 Côte d'Or Whites (plus more 2004s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Domaine Leflaive (Puligny-Montrachet) 2005  Puligny-Montrachet "Combettes" 1er white (91-93) 2005  Puligny-Montrachet "Folatières" 1er white (90-92) 2005  Puligny-Montrachet "Pucelles" 1er white (92-94) 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru white 94 2004 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru white 94 2004 Bourgogne white 85 2004 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru white 95 2004 Meursault-Blagny "Sous le Dos d'Ane" 1er white 89 2004 Puligny-Montrachet white 88 2004 Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon" 1er white 90 2004  Puligny-Montrachet "Combettes" 1er white 93 2004  Puligny-Montrachet "Folatières" 1er white 92 2004  Puligny-Montrachet "Pucelles" 1er white 93 **Sold under the Domaine Joseph Leflaive label Pierre Morey, the domaine's régisseur, told me that 2005 was "an easy, stress-free vintage. We really had no problems at all other than maybe a touch of hail in Bâtard and our parcel of Bourgogne but it was only a few hailstones that thankfully did very little damage as we lost perhaps 5% of the crop. Otherwise, about the only challenge we faced was a bit of water stress in Chevalier and Folatières that don't have much top soil to retain water. We enjoyed absolutely superb harvest conditions and beginning on September 15th we picked over a 9 day period as there was no rush. We could pick where and when we thought it was best and not rush. The sanitary condition of the crop was impeccable and there was essentially no sorting. Yields were quite good, averaging 40 hl/ha in the grands crus and 50 in the rest. Sugars were very strong at around 13.25% and we chaptalized nothing. As far as the vinification and élevage were concerned, the alcoholics certainly took a long time to finish and there is slightly higher residual sugar levels in the ‘05s than in the ‘04s, which finished almost all their sugars and are certainly drier on the finish. The malos were normal and the lees were so clean that there was really nothing to worry about. For the domaine wines, I believe 2005 is more complete than 2004 though I like the ‘04s a lot too. It reminds me of 1985 as there is the same richness and density but also with the firm acid spine the ‘85s had and I think it will age like those wines too." Note that the Puligny villages and the Meursault-Blagny were on their fining materials and not presented for evaluation. Note further that a number of the ‘04s were noticeably reduced because of the very late bottling and should be decanted for 20 minutes or so first if you're going to try any of them young. As an aside, a few of the ‘04s were bottled early, such as the Folatières, and it displays notably less reduction than the other wines and thus the reduction should be a passing phase. Lastly, I have included a note here from Leflaive's new 9 ha domaine in the Mâconnais that is run by a cousin of director Anne-Claude Leflaive. The élevage is currently being done in Puligny in the old Chartron et Trebuchet facility. Note that the wines will be sold under the Domaine Joseph Leflaive label. (Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; John Armit Wines, Corney & Barrow, Lea & Wheeler, Richard Walford, Justerini & Brooks and Tanners, all UK). 2005 Mâcon-Verzé: (the second vintage for this wine from yields of only 30 hl/ha because the vines were damaged after the severe hail storms in 2004). A clean, fresh and bright nose leads to delicious, concentrated and vibrant flavors that are lively and the finish is also exceptionally fresh, indeed like eating grapes. Lovely quality for this level and recommended. 89/2008+ 2005 Bourgogne: (includes some declassified villages wine). A distinctly ripe nose that offers up a hint of the exotic merges into nicely rich and relatively full flavors that buffer the firm acidity with a touch of backend sweetness. This is balanced and approachable and should drink well early. (86-88)/2008+ 2005 Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon": (Leflaive is the largest holder of Clavoillon with a whopping 4.8 ha that average 40 years of age). A discreet touch of pain grillé frames fresh and exotic aromas of peach, melon and mango that continue onto the round, rich and concentrated flavors that possess real texture due to the solid dry extract on the mouth coating and solidly long finish. This is not particularly elegant in 2005 but there's plenty of wine here. (88- 90)/2010+ 2005 Puligny-Montrachet "Folatières": (from 3 separate parcels spread out over the entire vineyard). Here there is a bit more wood toast but it stops well short of being intrusive with otherwise elegant and relatively airy white flower and pear aromas that continue onto the rich, full, intense and detailed flavors built on a base of fine minerality, all wrapped in a racy and refined finish that packs real punch and length. Lovely. (90-92)/2012+ 2005 Puligny-Montrachet "Pucelles": (from two very large parcels of vines totaling over 3 ha). A very discreet touch of brioche highlights the honeysuckle and apricot aromas that are elegant, pure and wonderfully refined and dissolve into sweet, intense and unusually precise flavors that also reflect more minerality than I typically find in this wine as well, culminating in superb punch and energy. It's not rare to have the Pucelles be as good as the Combettes but in '05, it's clearly a better effort. One to consider closely. (92-94)/2013+ Burghound.com 85 July 2007 2005 Puligny-Montrachet "Combettes": (from 35 to 40 year old vines). This is a bit more aromatically complex if not finer or more elegant, featuring white flower and hints of the exotic that can also be found on the rich and powerful medium-bodied plus flavors blessed with plenty of dry extract where the moderately austere finish spreads out like a fan. As noted above, I normally prefer the Combettes to the Pucelles but in '05, it just doesn't have the intensity and vibrancy of the latter though I quite like this as well. If you can find them, buy both as you won't regret either purchase. (91-93)/2013+ 2005 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet: (from 45 year old vines, which are the oldest vines of the Domaine). Aromatically this is quite similar to the Pucelles with its lovely blend of honeysuckle and exotic fruit hints save for a bit more depth that is found here followed by rich, pure, energetic and almost painfully intense flavors that explode on the wonderfully long and punchy finish that is pure class. This is the best example of the Leflaive BBM that I can remember in a long time. (93-95)/2013+ 2005 Bâtard-Montrachet: (from 3 different parcels, two on the Chassagne side and the third in the Puligny sector, almost on the border between the two communes). Interestingly, this is riper than the Bienvenues yet less expressive with a pretty mélange of very fresh orchard fruit and acacia blossom aromas that introduce broadshouldered flavors of serious power and weight that are carrying ample levels of dry extract that really coat the palate on the explosive and hugely long finish. This can't match the BBM for sheer elegance but there is more material here and more overall completeness too. (93-96)/2013+ 2005 Chevalier-Montrachet: The most elegant wine in the entire range (which is really saying something in this case) with an ultra pure nose of rose petal, anise, white peach and pear plus subtle hints of stone and smoke that dissolve seamlessly into unusually big and rich flavors that possess real size, weight and muscle, indeed this is almost Bâtard-like in its sheer volume, all wrapped in a deeply concentrated and wonderfully stony finish that is both impressively explosive and strikingly long. While it's a much bigger and denser version, the flavors positively vibrate in the mouth and it is this sense of barely restrained energy that reminds me a lot of the 1996 at the same stage of development. An exceptionally promising Chevy if more outsized than usual and patience will be required. (94-97)/2015+ 2005 Montrachet: (from a small .08 ha parcel on the Chassagne side worked only by horse). The Montrachet is (almost) never racked out of barrel and into holding tank to complete its élevage in the way all of the prior wines are handled and as such, it virtually always displays a bit more oak influence. True to form, notes of pain grillé and vanilla serve as a background for the very reserved, indeed reticent aromas of white flower, peach, apricot, mango and hints of spice that introduce brooding and powerful flavors supported by thick and concentrated dry extract that stains the palate on the finish that seems to go on and on without end. This is incredibly backward and by comparison, the Chevalier seems open for business whereas this is going to need a great deal of time to see its final majority so if you're one of the few fortunate to ever find a bottle, be prepared to let this slumber away for at least a dozen years first and fifteen is not out of the question. (95-98)/2017+ 2004 Bourgogne: (includes some declassified villages wine). A notably ripe and ever so slightly reduced nose featuring straw, peach and white flower aromas merges into rich, sweet and vibrant flavors that culminate in a racy, pure and admirably complex finish where the acidity is borderline aggressive. I like this but it won't be for everyone. 85/2009+ 2004 Puligny-Montrachet: (from 5 separate parcels, the largest of which is Les Tremblots). A touch of reduction detracts only mildly from the straw and herbal aromas that leads to flavors that display excellent precision and plenty of intensity, all wrapped in a detailed finish supported by a bright and prominent acid spine. Unusually for this wine, it's borderline rustic though I like the cuts-like-a-knife finish. 88/2010+ 2004 Meursault-Blagny "Sous le Dos d'Ane": (only the fourth harvest; the ‘00 was declassified into the Bourgogne but the '01 was bottled). An expressive if slightly reduced nose trimmed in a bit of oak where hazelnut and citrus aromas are also found blend into concentrated and intensely mineral-infused middle weight flavors that possess real verve on the driving finish. This is precise yet with good mid-palate fat and will require a good 5 to 6 years in bottle to really round out. 89/2011+ 2004 Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon": (Leflaive is the largest holder of Clavoillon with a whopping 4.8 ha that average 40 years of age). Ripe peach, straw and underbrush aromas plus subtle spice and moderate reduction complement the rich, round and full flavors that possess an impressively dense mid-palate and while the flavors are forward, the finish instantly tightens up. There is good detail here and more structure than this wine typically displays. If you're going to try one of these early, be sure to decant it as it definitely will benefit from the air exposure. 90/2011+ 2004 Puligny-Montrachet "Folatières": (from 3 separate parcels spread out over the entire vineyard). As it always is, the nose if finer and decidedly more elegant with really stylish white flower and spiced pear aromas cut with subtle notes of lemon peel that dissolve into pungently mineral medium full flavors built on a base of understatement and finesse rather than power yet there is striking length on the stony finish. This is crystalline in its purity and while it doesn't have the depth of material that the Pucelles and Combettes are blessed with, I actually prefer the character here. Note that while there is a very subtle hint of reduction here, it's much less pronounced than in the more recently bottled examples. 92/2012+ Burghound.com 86 July 2007 2004 Puligny-Montrachet "Pucelles": (from two very large parcels of vines totaling over 3 ha). A mildly reduced nose features honeysuckle and acacia blossom notes introduces sweet, rich and beautifully complex flavors of impressive purity and vibrancy with brilliant length. A terrific effort that has the hallmark softness of Pucelles while retaining a firm and tangy, indeed almost linear finish that displays more minerality than usual. 93/2012+ 2004 Puligny-Montrachet "Combettes": (from 35 to 40 year old vines). This is further along aromatically with an expressive nose featuring white flower, peach, pear, apricot, anise and hints of pain grillé that accompany pure but quite firmly structured medium full flavors and an unusually crisp, defined and linear finish. This is perhaps less powerful than usual though the quid pro quo is notably better definition. Lovely and recommended. 93/2012+ 2004 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet: (from 45 year old vines, which are the oldest vines of the Domaine). Noticeable reduction does not detract unduly from the hallmark honeysuckle aromas that lead to tight, backward and vibrant mediumbodied plus flavors that possess real richness, volume and more structure than I typically find yet the balance is absolutely impeccable. The vibrancy and energy here are most impressive and this should be quite a wine but don't even think about opening a bottle for at least a decade as this is very tightly wound at present. 94/2014+ 2004 Bâtard-Montrachet: (from 3 different parcels, two on the Chassagne side and the third in the Puligny sector, almost on the border between the two communes). Despite the presence of moderate reduction, the nose offers an elegant mix of wood spice, fresh and wonderfully nuanced high-toned white flower aromas and just a touch of exotic fruit that precedes sweet, rich and notably powerful flavors that possess exceptionally good dry extract levels which confer a textured, almost chewy mouth feel on the sleekly muscled and explosive finish. This is an impressive effort that is relatively racy by the usual standards found in Bâtard and one that should age for years. 94/2014+ 2004 Chevalier-Montrachet: This is almost as backward as the Bienvenues though supremely elegant white flower and subtle spice aromas peek through the moderate reduction yet the piercingly mineral flavors display a beguiling sweetness on the crystalline and incredibly precise finish that seems to have no end. This will be a great wine in time as it's clear that there is another dimension here compared to all of the previous wines. 95/2015+

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